SURF

Stay in the pocket — just ahead of the breaking foam. Too far ahead and the wave has no power to give you. Too far behind and it lands on your head. The tube is the last few metres of clean water before it closes, and it is worth everything.

Five waves to a set, each one bigger than the last. Bottom turns, snaps, cutbacks and floaters are recognised from what the board actually does — there is no trick button. Your score is the whole set, so a wave you survive beats a wave you don't.